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Panniers strapped to their haunches, a team of horses waded collar-deep through North Sea waters — hauling wide nets along the Belgian coast as cawing seagulls swirl all around. In the saddle, clad head to toe in yellow oilskins, riders steered them parallel with the beach in Oostduinkerke — the last place on Earth, they say, where the tradition of shrimp-fishing on horseback lives on.
Once practised throughout Europe, the custom has all but died out — but a community of enthusiasts has kept the flame going in this coastal town, earning a spot on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list. They do not fish for profit, but the rare spectacle they offer has become a tourist draw for the small town, situated half an hour from the French border.
Back in the day, historians explain, poor farmers used to ride to the coast to fish — as a way to supplement their diet. At first they pulled their nets by hand, later using mules then eventually workhorses able to haul much larger, heavier loads. The method was used in Belgium, the Netherlands, northern France and the south of England.
‘Unique’
On this sunny day in late October, a group of five headed out at low tide to fish for grey shrimp. “This is the only place in the world where shrimp-fishing is still practiced with horses,” fisherman Gunther Vanbleu told AFP as he sorted his catch on the beach — surrounded by a curious crowd of smartphone-wielding onlookers. “You’re working with your horse, you’re in the sea and the combination of everything at the same time — the pleasure of catching fish or catching shrimp, all of that together makes it fun,” he said.
This time around, some 200 people gathered — in rubber boots or barefoot — to watch the afternoon show under crisp blue skies. “There is always a lot of interest from people, because it is unique,” Vanbleu said.
Not for sale
The day’s catch — a few kilogrammes of shrimp — is not for sale: it will be cooked up by the dozen families who keep the tradition going and shared among friends. But the sight alone continues to draw tourists from April to October. “I think that this will always exist in the municipality,” said Vanbleu. After the custom won UNESCO recognition in 2013, a committee was set up whose purpose is to ensure it is kept alive, he explained.
“I think that it will continue forever,” he said. Asked about the possible impact of climate change, Vanbleu said he has seen some shifts over the years. “We do notice that something has changed a little, such as the temperature of the water — it’s maybe a little warmer than usual.”
“And we are seeing other animal species arrive here,” he said. “Maybe if the water gets too warm, the shrimp will move to colder water… in 30 or 40 years.” “If it comes to that, we will see,” said Vanbleu — who for now, come rain or shine, plans to keep riding out to sea.
